Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery – April/May 1986 - by Jim Busine

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NX77799 - BUSINE, Sydney Herbert Thomas, Pte.

Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery – April/May 1986 - by Jim Busine

I left Sydney Airport on Saturday 19th April, farewelled by family and friends including Ron Maston of 2/30th and arrived in Thailand 20th April spending one week in Bangkok and Phataya beach Resort on an organised tour provided by Citicorp Insurances.

On 26th April, I flew from Bangkok to Rangoon in Burma. I was met at the airport by the Second Secretary of the Australian Embassy, David Tough, who helped me through customs. It took over an hour even with his help. The heat in the non airconditioned airport was unbearable and it was a relief to get into his chauffeur driven air conditioned car for the drive to Rangoon city and the Strand Hotel where I would be staying.

The Strand Hotel in Colonial Days, along with Rangoon was the Pearl of the orient, but I am sad to say when the British left in 1948/49 things stagnated. Nothing has been done to improve the hotel nor the city. Whatever breaks stays broken or is patched up. My room was called an executive suite but the only thing that warranted this classing was the air conditioner. There were no power points, no fridge, frequent blackouts, the toilet barely worked and had never been cleaned. The bath was black, no hot water and the cold water was black (in colour) and they advise you not to sit in it too long. Still it was a thrill to spend time in the atmosphere of the old Strand.

The first night in Rangoon, David Tough invited me to his home for dinner with his wife Carolyn and family. His house was very comfortable with all the modern cons, and servants ready to assist at any moment. The next day David took me around Rangoon sightseeing, however I retired early that evening as I was being met by David's chauffeur at 4 am the next morning to be driven to the train depot.

Even though 4. am and still dark, it was extremely hot at the railway station. We were booked into the first class carriage of our train, that is, first class in Burma's sense of the term. The lights didn't work, air conditioning was an open window, if you could force it open, and the stains on my white pants gave a fair indication of the state of the seats.

We were joined by Phillip Henry (the second secretary) and his wife Margaret on the train.

Well aware of what we were about to come across they had spent a lot of time organising food and drinks for the trip, as well as organising for two embassy cars to meet us at Moulmein. We were not allowed to travel by road because of the terrorist activity. The cars anyway could only travel during daylight hours.

The train journey was something I will never forget. Every 2 hours or so we would stop at a station and all the locals would come to the open windows selling food and drink. We arrived at the rail junction at Mataban in the afternoon and a ferry was waiting for us to cross the Saween River. This took about 40 minutes and when we crossed, we were met by the two cars and staff who had crossed the river by car ferry earlier that day.

We then drove one hour to a Government House on the beach at Setse about 5 k's from the village of Thanbyuzayat. On the way we passed the cemetery and was I tempted to ask if we could stop, but I knew we could not, because of the armed escort that had joined us in Moulmein.

The cottage we stayed in was comfortable but again no running water, or electricity. It was very pleasant to be able to swim and walk along the beach and Philip and Margaret had prepared well, sending along in one of the cars their cook (Moo Moo).

At 8.45 am on the 30th April (we arrived at the cemetery) and were met by a full General, a battalion commander and other Army personnel including two buglers. Our armed escort were also close by, as they would be for the three days we were across the river.

At 9 am we had the Anzac ceremony and I laid one wreath on behalf of the Australian Government and another on behalf of the 2/30th battalion. Having studied the layout of the cemetery I then proceeded directly to my father's grave. It was a very emotional walk, crying every step of the way.

I cannot describe my feelings as I took that last step and stood in front of my father’s grave. This was my first meeting with him since we parted as father and new born son in 1941.

There were about 100 locals at a nearby fence watching me, but I could not hold back the built up emotion. I spent about 2 hours on my own before being met by Philip and Margaret. We then spent over three hours photographing the graves of 2/12 and 2/30th. The whole time we were accompanied by the man in charge of the cemetery, the very helpful Mr Whar.

We left the cemetery emotionally drained and returned to the cottage for the rest of the day. We waited for the arrival of another Australian, who was one day behind us, (Ian Ramsey from Kootingal near Tamworth). Ian's uncle, no relation to Col Ramsey, is also buried at the cemetery.

That afternoon we went for about a 3 km walk along the beach and came across a fishing village. Intrigued by our step back in time we ended up staying quite a while. When we decided to head back it was dark and before long we could see torches coming toward us in the distance. It was the Army Guard looking for us, as they were supposed to stay with us all the time but were swimming when we went for our walk. When we had not returned by nightfall they panicked because a French couple had been kidnapped from near the village only months before. Fortunately they were returned after a couple of days. The guard stayed very close to us for the remainder of our trip.

The next day we packed and left early for our trip to a section of the infamous Burma railway not far from the village of Thanbyuzayat. The section we visited is on a pathway that passes over it so it is cleared at that point. The rest is overgrown with jungle. There are no sleepers as they had been taken up after the war. It was a strange feeling standing on that mound, knowing my father possibly passed the same spot.

It was Les Hall who a few years ago put me on the tracks of my father’s footsteps after he had left Australia, and I thought of Les with a tear in my eye as I scanned the areas he had described to me so vividly. Standing in this area the sketches of Dick Cochran also came to mind. I could honestly feel the presence of those buried in the area, their spirits reaching out to comfort me. Strangely enough, near the railway is a memorial to the Japanese who had died on the line, built in 1944.

We went back to the cemetery for about two hours and I spent over an hour meditating at my father’s grave. We then visited the market place in the village. Most of the items for sale were black market, brought in over the hills from Thailand and as far away as China. We then returned to Moulmein and said farewell to the guard and recrossed the river to join the train at Matabar for the return trip.

A most incredible sight was seen when the train pulled out very slowly from the station. Hundreds of people were along the track with huge bundles on their shoulders and people on the train would hook into them and bring them inside. Within 10 minutes the train filled up with these bundles which were full of contraband of all types, clothes, lipsticks, material, foods and so on. They were then sorted out into smaller bundles for the journey and taken off when we returned to Rangoon, at 10 pm that night.

The next day David Tough took us to the airport and we said farewell to Burma. I then spent the next week travelling down through Malaysia. I was on a train when I went through Gemas so could not stop. The last two days I spent at Raffles Hotel in Singapore and visited Sentosa Island and Changi jail, then flew out on 10th May to arrive back at Mascot on Mother’s Day 11th May.

It was a great journey. I cannot wait to go hack to Burma in the future, hopefully to take my sons to visit their Grandfathers grave.

While I was at the cemetery I found several names of 2/30th men that the association did not know about. They were obviously men who were with my father as reinforcements that were never taken on strength.

I would like to hear from anyone who would have been with my father from leaving Australia as a Reinforcement and who was captured in Java.

My fathers full name was - Sydney Herbert Thomas BUSINE. Army No: NX77799 and the ship he left Fremantle, Western Australia on, on the 30.1.42 was the S.S. Marella.

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Last updated  31/08/2021